Friday, August 10, 2012

A hop, skip, illegal drive through Siena and jump over to Montepulciano


Montepulciano . . . one of the most fantastic walled hill towns.

(*Disclaimer: Being that Italy is one of the top gastronomic centers in the world, I have a lot of pictures of food.  This isn't because there wasn't anything better film, it was just that the simplicity and care that went into the food, needed to be recorded. Thank you for reading . . . you may continue)

Hey, if it’s worthy of ‘Twilight’ it must be good! Haha  No, really it was a beautiful, old hill town filled with some rich history.  We stayed at the Meuble  Il Riccio, just off the Piazza Grande.  It was all cobblestone walkways, with narrow winding paths, that you are bound to get lost on (which isn't necessarily a bad thing).  We were about a 1 minute from the main square, but you wouldn't realize it, with our bed and breakfast being tucked into a quiet stone court yard, that the owner had in his family since the 11th century.  11th century!!  Now THAT is old.
Anyway, it was a shorter stay., and we didn't get a chance to do a whole lot of winery visits.  But we did managed] to take in a beautiful classical concert by The Royal College of Northern Manchester, which was being held, conveniently enough, right in the main square.  The coolest part of the day, was hearing the opera singers go through their lessons at the music school in the square during the day (the echo was amazing).  My parents also were able to hit a few wine tastings, which they enjoyed, of course.  Our last day in Montepulciano, we got out and visited the quaint town of Pienza (where, I discovered, is the epi-center for Pecorino cheese!!! Ahhh!).
The nice thing, was that after Venice, Cinque Terre and Castelina in Chianti, we were a bit more relaxed here, and we spent time recuperating ;).


























Castelina in Chianti (Tuscany)


Onto Tuscany and Castellina in Chianti . . .

What can I say?  From one beautiful area to another.  The Tuscan landscape, like Cinque Terre, is something you see on television or in pictures and say, ‘yeah right, it looks like that?!’  Well . . . it does . . . in every way.  Castellina in Chianti is a small village my Mom and I happened upon 10 years ago.  It is small medieval/renaissance hilltown nestled in the Chianti region of Italy.  We stayed at Fattoria Tregole and was hosted by the lovely Edith.  She runs a beautiful and very hidden B&B overlooking olive groves and grape vineyards.  She serves and simple, but tasty, breakfast and even runs cooking classes (which my Mom and I took her up on happily).  We also got a chance to walk around their cellars, since they are a small working winery.  We also got out one day and did some wine tastings, thanks to our trusty GPS, a ‘few’ windy white stone roads and some suggestions from small, but very tasty winery employees.

**I have to pause, because as I write these blog entries, I realize that I have not yet told you a few of our interesting and, at times, gut splitting stories throughout our Matregrano Italian Tour.  Could it be compared to a National Lampoon’s Vacation experience, well, at times . . . yes.  Here is a list of a few of our note-worthy experiences throughout our travels though Italia . . .
1.       The entire trip was focused on my Mother’s stubborn and moody phone.  We ended up calling her 'Flo', so at least we had someone to yell at.  One minute it had service, the next it didn’t.  One minute we’d be driving along using the GPS system and the next, we’d be cut off.  I believe the record for the amount of time she needed to restart the phone to reset the service was 4 or 5 times.  The best thing was, that it became a joke every time the ‘power up’ ringtone sounded; alerting her the phone was operation.  It reminded me of high school, when someone dropped their tray in the cafeteria and every one would cheer.  That’s pretty much how we are dealing with the phone situation (mine just doesn’t even work).
2.       When we did have GPS capabilities, ‘it’ or really I should say I, managed to drive our small Ford Fiesta rental car through the main (forbidden, I might add) street in Siena . . . one of the most historical Italian centers.  Luckily, after my father turned bright red and my mom refused to look any of the passerby’s in the eye, we found a young waiter you gave us directions out and encouraged us to do so quickly.
3.       Apparently once wasn’t enough, because I seemed (I blame it on the damn GPS at this point) to do the same thing through the lovely and super famous walled hill city of Montepulciano.  At this point, my mom and I were laughing so hard she stopped breathing and I nearly peed myself (but my Dad still turned bright red).  Now, luckily we only managed to go through the lower part of the main square and we got out pretty quickly by following a permitted vehicle.  Look at it this way though, if you are interested in learning about the ins and outs or Siena and Montepulciano (on a personal level), put me behind the wheel.
4.       Besides the phone, the private tours of famous walled cities and the profuse sweating all of us experienced, at this point we are just blown away by the amount of calories we have to be burning in Italy!  I mean, you think Italy, you think amazing food.  Well, it’s true.  We have eaten some outstanding food, but DAMN, do we walk a lot.  And not just walking, but hill/step walking.  I am going to need a friggin’ vacation from Italy.

Anyway, back to Castellina in Chianti . . .
The first night we were there, we ate at a restaurant recommended by Edith.  It was pretty disappointing.  It was the first bad meal I had in Italy.  I should have known, though, because it was in the main piazza and was filled with tourists.  The food was soaked in butter and oil and it was just off-putting.  Luckily the following night was our cooking class dinner/  We made foccacia, pasta, pesto, stuffed tomatoes, a roast and a few other goodies.  A Canadian couple on their honeymoon were also taking the class.  We ate outside, laughed (mainly about chasing bats out of houses . . . don't ask why) and just had a relaxing evening.  On our last night in Castellina in Chianti, we hit a fantastic hidden outside restaurant, next to a vineyard.  It was definitely a better suggestion than the first restaurant.
The following day we headed out for Montepulciano, hoping to stop by Siena on the way there.  Well, as you may have read (if you were not totally bored and didn't skip the the bulleted list above), not only did we see Siena, but I decided (by accident, of course) to take the VIP tour of Siena and drive directly into the pedestrian walkways, up to the main square (I TOTALLY blame that incident on Flo).  After my parents practically shi**ing themselves, I managed to get back on track and, with only one failed attempt at entering the majestic walled city of wine, made it safe and sound into Montepulciano.


Creepy Italian trees


Eggs for the cake

Our kitchen (for the class)


take to make the pasta

Pesto

Olive oil tastings

Eggplant

Chocolate Cake

Stuffed tomatoes

Rollin' out the foccacia

Eggplant and ricotta cheese cups

Roast

Pasta

Voila!  Dinnertime




concrete wine tanks

barrel room


Meat on a rock . . . yep, I said meat on a rock.


Cinque Terre (The Italian Coast)


Cinque Terre . . . the five hill towns

This place is like a postcard you’d buy of the Italian coastline, or the clip art image you’d copy and paste into your desktop screensaver.  It’s breath-taking, local, and one of my favorite places in Italy.  Of the five towns (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and  Monterosso), we decided to stay in Manarola.  We usually visit the town of Vernazza, however in October 2011, Vernazza was ravaged by a horrible storm, which left the town buried under 10 feet of mud.  Hearing that they were back in business in May, I thought about changing our reservation over to Vernzza, from Manarola, but had a feeling that maybe they needed another season to really get ready for tourists.  I am really happy with the decision to stay in Manarola.  What a find!  It has the central walkway (with some cute shopping) that cuts through town (like Vernazza), but with more of an untouched, or local feel.  Our apartment (made a note to myself to do more apartments in the future . . . highly recommend it) was located on the main drag, which was a little difficult if we wanted to hit bed early.  However, we didn’t worry about going to bed early, so it was fine.  The funny thing was, that our terrace overlooked the main walkway where the locals bar was.  So, we enjoyed naming and watching the locals who frequented the bar . . . some free entertainment.
Throughout the week stay, we visited Manarola, a few of the other hill towns (glad we did not stay in Vernazza, though we still wanted to visit to give our support), did a hillside hike through the groves and vineyards and went swimming.  We ate out at some great eateries (all recommended by Rick Steves, who hit home on each and every one!) and even cooked in one night with some fresh seafood we purchased from the fish monger earlier that day.
I will say one thing about Manarola (and Cinque Terre in general) is, be prepared to walk!!  You will walk the streets, you will walk 100 to 200 stairs just to get to the next level of your hike, you will walk roads that put that super curvy street in San Francisco to shame . . . and then you will walk some more.  It’s the price you pay for being in a less-touristed area (even though there were quite a few tourists) in a beautiful setting like Cinque Terre.  So, put on your comfiest sneakers, pack a lot of water and some fruit and be prepared to work your butt off!

The view from our terrace

the view looking up the street


Ah, the friggin' hills



The Cinque Terre hiking trail


Seafood!!!


Monterosso


Ummmm, ouch

Our entryway to the apartment

Vernazza

Cooking in (fresh anchovies)

We bought seafood for a home-cooked meal


Apples

Sugar cane

Our vineyard hike




Olives