Thursday, October 25, 2012

Heading back to the Italian motherland...

Well, growing up my father's wonderful family (insert sarcasm here) they fed us many not-so-true stories of his family's arrival to the U.S.  The stories ranged from how my great grandfather hopped a boat illegally and somehow ended up in Philadelphia, to the fact that our last name was not really our last name.  Well, after discovering we had a whole 'nother side of the family living in the Philadelphia area, I decided I had to meet at least one of the family.  I  mean, some extended family member was bound to be kind.  We finally arranged to meet with the eldest cousin, Assumpta (she was a true wonder at the beautiful age of 96).  My mother and I found out that what we were told, was not quite true.  She explained that the family is from a very small hilltop village in the Southern region of Calabria, at the boot of Italy.  After a little more research and digging, I was able to pull up ship records from my great grandfather's arrival to Philadelphia (by the way, we are the Matregrano's and he came over fully legal).  Many years have passed since those discoveries and as the planning of our Italian vacation was taking place, my father asked if we could go to Luzzi, to see once and for all, what is up with our family.  My mother made all of the arrangements for our stay in Luzzi.  We ended up at a quaint B&B in the next town over.  It was a beautiful farm house in between two industrial factories....interesting.  They could not be more accommodating or give us enough food (we were pretty much stuffed the entire time we were in Luzzi).
After we arrived in the area and checked-in, we ventured out to find Luzzi.  Luckily, my Mom's GPS decided to work during this leg of the trip (g*damn GPS), which was a huge benefit because it led us straight to Luzzi.  The following day we set out to solve the mystery of the Matregrano's.  My mother suggested the cemetery, and after convincing my Dad and I (we wanted to start at the churches) we ended up at the cemetery.  Man, was it a great idea...not only was it going to close in an hour, but we hit the jackpot!  We tried out our best Italian with the grounds keepers who were sitting around hanging out.  My father explained that his grandfather was from Luzzi.  I don't know if they quite got it, but when he said 'Matregrano' and showed them his license, they said "Oh, down there!"  Well apparently the whole damn family was buried there (good call , Mom).
Needless to say, it was whirlwind day, that only just started at the cemetery.   My Mom wrote a few paragraphs about the day, when we got back to the B&B.  Here is her recount of the Matregrano adventures...



We arrived on August 4, 2012 with the intention of hunting down any Matregrano’s we could find.  So, after a wonderful Italian breakfast, we took off for Luzzi.  When driving up the hill going into Luzzi, I noticed a cemetery with people going in…..stop, turn around, this is the best place to find your ancestors.  Up the street, turn around, into the graveyard  to find 6 Italian men that could not speak English.  I immediately got out my phone that has a translator—thank God!  Nick said Matregrano and all the men started with the hands, and talking…..there, right there, were grave stones with the Matregrano name spelled exactly like ours.  Out came the cameras and phone to take pictures.  The men did their best to tell us who was related to whom, who came back from Philadelphia to be buried in Luzzi.  The stone had pictures of each relative attached to the stones.  Awesome!  After we were finished, one of the men said there were still more graves.  Off we went up a small incline made of cement—no surprise as are in Italy.  There were an additional 4 or 5 grave stones with Matregrano’s.  We took more pictures and movies.  The custodian related to us that we were to follow him as he was the neighbor of Silvia Matregrano.  Astounded and excited, we went into the car and followed him in his little cart with 4 wheels.  Up the hill, around the curve, up another hill, around the back of town and there we were.  We parked and followed this kind gentleman to Silvia Matregrano’s humble abode.  She opened the door and he explained why we were there.  Silvia immediately welcomed us into her home made of marble, pictures of family and a lovely dining room table where we sat and talked via translator.
You could see Silva get more excited as the minutes passed.  Every time we handed her the phone translator and she read each statement and questions, she got more excited.  She offered us coffee and juice two times—Nicole said we must take her up on her offer so as not to offend her.  Nick was still in disbelief……you mean we really have relatives in Luzzi?????  She went downstairs to the kitchen area and got coffee and juice.  We could hear her on the phone very excited and saying Americano and Philadelphia.  Five or ten minutes later, in walks George Matregrano.  He was a very nice man—reserved and certainly checking us out.  Silvia was talking to him in Italian and he is shaking his head.  We asked him questions via translator, and he did his best to reply. Our visit ended with pictures, kisses and hugs.  We promised to send them pictures.  George wrote down the address for us.   Silvia was trying to tell us something which we just didn’t get. 
Silvia walked us up a new pathway which we figured was a different way to get to the car….no it wasn’t.  She took us to Pop Pop Nick Matregrano’s house.  We did not know this until we were there for several minutes.  We asked her via translator if she knew where Pop lived.  She quickly pointed to the floor and walls.  In Italian she was saying “Here”.  We were all blown away with this new information.  I thought Nick was going to blow up with excitement.  She showed us new pictures of relatives from Philadelphia and the wine cellar that was carved into the earth.  She had probably 100 jars of homemade spaghetti  sauce and fruit. 
After many pictures and movies, Silvia walked us to our car where we said goodbye again….A good day, indeed.

After Luzzi, we took the long drive up to Anzio, which is about and hour outside of Rome.  Anzio was famous as an allied landing strip during WWII.  My father was excited to see the site, and my Mom and I were happy with a very long drive up from the south.  The area was a typical city suburb,  The hotel was absolutely horrendous.  So much so, we actually had to speak to the manager about the Arabic guys saying we were crazy (I just happened to know a few Arabic words, one of which is 'crazy') and giving us some of the worst service I think I've ever had.  There were bugs in the bed, the AC cooling unit shot into the room, from next door, the food was horrible, the service just as bad....it was just a crappy place.  But, the historic sites were very interesting and the small town of Anzio (town center) was adorable.  A day or two later, we headed up to Rome.  We stayed at the airport hotel, which was a fantastic idea. My father headed home the next day (to get ready for the Folk Fest) and my Mom and I hopped over to Beaune, France for our next leg in the summer vacation.  Enjoy the pics...

Found at last!

Cactus pear fruit at B&B

Just one of several columns of Matregrano's in the cemetery

Silvia's House

Family

Luzzi B&B

Luzzi

Pomegranate

Pop Pop Nick's childhood home

Road to Luzzi

Silvia's Door

Thank goodness for family

Silvia's Doorway

Silvia's Family

They do exist!!

Figs

Cemetery

Lavender everywhere

Old pictures



Pop Pop Nick's door
Anzio

US Cemetery in Anzio

Anzio WWII Museum

Italian Uniform

machine gun found under water

Museum poster

Grave stones

Oh Sorrento, dear Sorrento...

As I was going through my pictures, I noticed that although Sorrento was a stunning coastal Italian city, the tourist overload made us want to stay up in our hilltop Bed and Breakfast and take in the views, rather than fight the crowds.
The drive into Sorrento was interesting, to say the least.  It involved a lot of very slow traffic through very tunnels, along cliff-side lanes of speeding traffic; mopeds whizzing in and out of their own lanes and other lanes.  I think my parents lost a few years of their lives entering into and out of Sorrento.  As we entered into the town, itself, it appeared to be an average beach town you'd find in the states.  Clothing stores lining the streets, with the occasional trinket shop dotted here and there.  Restaurants were tucked down small alleyways (well, the restaurants that served amazing authentic Sorrentine cuisine were down the alleyways; the over-priced, crowded, crappy seafood joints lined the plaza).  Throughout the week in Sorrento, we had a chance to sample some amazing Sorrentine and not-so-Sorrentine cuisine.  They were all either recommended by the host of the B&B or through the Rick Steves Italy guide we faithfully used in each city.  If we looked hard enough, we did find some off the beaten path spots and were lucky to do so.
We did, however, venture of every so often to take in some of the more well-known sights.  Our visit to the Capri and the Grottoes was our first trip out.  Our host at the B&B suggested a few 'must-do' trips, and this was one.  We opted not to do the 8 hour tour (heehee), so we instead found a tour company to take us out to the Island of Capri and then found another company to take us on a water (coastal) tour of Capri.  The island itself was full of people, full of traffic and full of tourist traps.  We were much more interested in the flora and fauna of the island, so the boat tour seemed a better idea.  We hopped on, my Mom hoping she could hold it together (me, happy I took my Dramamine pills). After a few minutes of waiting for the boat to fill up, we headed out into the crystal blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea.  Our first stop was the famous Blue Grotto.  Well . . . after waiting 45 minutes in a swaying boat to watch others pay even more money and enter into the grotto for a few minutes and head back to the boat, it is possible the famous Blue Grotto can now be referred to as the 'infamous' Blue Grotto.  It was a beautiful area, but the tourist influx really does affect the experience.  Now I remember why a majority of my travels were done in the Fall and Spring seasons.  After heading out, and comforting my boat sick mother, we were taken around the rest of Capri Island.  We saw the other grottoes, a beautiful 'Lovers Arch' and a few famous cliff-side homes.  Overall, the experience was not quite as amazing as many would believe.  The natural beauty of the island was astounding, the man-made beauty was not quite astounding...
The other memorable excursion was visiting the town stuck in time, Pompeii.  Unfortunately my Mom was not able to join us, but it was a nice visit with my Dad.  After 30 minutes on the Pompeii train, we arrived at the station, which was luckily only 10 minutes from the site entrance.  From the moment we entered into the town of Pompeii, stared in amazement.  The town is truly frozen in time.  This is what we came to Sorrento for.  Rick Steves has a free app that provides subscribers with free walking tours of various sites around the globe.  Luckily, Pompeii is one of them, and as long as you follow the directions clearly and rewind when needed, you will get a great tour that streamlines this massive village.  The homes, temples, roadways and shops all had remnants left behind from the disaster and even before the grand Mt. Vesuvius erupted and buried the city in ash.  It was crazy seeing the chariot tracks left behind, that had been carved into the enormous street cobbles tones; the grist blocks that ground the wheat, the fast food stalls; even the brothel used by the well-off men living in Pompeii.  Everything was just so remarkable, that as you walked around the village of Pompeii, there was an eary quiet that most everyone observed. It is a must see to say the least...
The rest of the visit in Sorrento involved a few walks around town in the evening, enjoying the weather and shops.  My mom, dad and I all enjoyed Sorrento however I can't say that it is a repeat visit that we'll be taking.  Enjoy the pics...

Alexander the Great

A mosaic of the battle of Alexander the Great and Darius III of Persia

Alexander the Great

Small Roadway

Aquaduct (rain water)

Bakery and grist mill

Basilica and Govt office
Sap and Bath House

Small 'sink' in bath house

Bath house and steam room

Double walled room for better use of steam in bath house

Brothel

Basilica/Govt office pillars not finished because of the eruption

Darius III of Persia

Darius III of Persia

Egyptian Temple of the goddess Isis

End of the road for chariots (blockades)

fast food joint

Grand Theater

House Numbers

Blue Grotto

Walk down to the waterway to catch a boat

Heading out to Capri from Sorrento

Capri

Capri

Carpri

One of many grottoes

Another stunning grotto

Capri

Small water caves

Lovers Arch