Friday, August 19, 2011

Iftar; If, what?

I realized that I did not share my recent Iftar dinner I participated in last week.  Now, you may be asking yourself, "What is Iftar?"  Well, if you weren't asking yourself that question, I bet you are now!  No?  Oh well...


Iftar is the meal that the Muslims break their Ramadan fast with.  It is essentially dinner.  It usually includes certain fruits, juices, dates and varied dishes but could depend upon the region you are having Iftar in.  I believe that traditionally fast was broken with water, dates and some juices.  Then the bigger meal would be later in the evening.  However, every place is different.


I went to the Iftar buffet at my hotel.  A girl I was speaking to mentioned that usually the hotels had the better Iftars, so why not?  After bumping into a lady who also wanted to do Iftar, we headed into the  restaurant got started!


Before I even started walking around, I had to take a picture of the table.  It was simply done, but still very pretty with a small dish of dried apricots, figs and dates.  After admiring the decor I decided to walk around and see what they were offering.  They had several stations with varying foods.  The stations included a juice bar, 'salad' area, hot dishes with finger foods, soups, desserts (hot and cold), breads and some meats.  The juice area had traditional drinks like Arabic coffee, rose water juice, a coconut concotion, mango juice, a yogurt drink and a few others.  I hit the 'salad' area first.  Now, when I say salad, we're not talking the sald bar you find at a typical American restaurant.  This was a Middle Eastern 'salad bar' on steroids (very expensive steroids).  It had several homemade dressings (no, they did not have blue cheese), bowls of veggie based dips like hummus and baba ghanoush, veggies, a litle bit of cold and salted seafood (squid, anchovies, etc.), cheeses, and a few other tidbits.  Needless to say that a person could have just spent a while eating from the salad area.






After grabbing a few pieces of seafood, cheese (for those of you who know me well, I know this is shocking) and exotic eats I headed over to the soup.  They had several soups, but I chose the soup in the coolest container, yes it was a tough decision.  The gentleman scooping the soup out of this large teardrop-shaped stainless steel  container was very kind to add all of the accompaniments that went along with the small bowl of  soup.  It was a lentil soup that was absolutely delicious and I was even lucky enough to get the recipe from the executive chef!  Yeah!  Although I did not hit it up, the bread station was pretty amazing as well.




The next area of attack was the hot dishes.  Here they had about 10 to fifteen chaffing dishes lined up with various Indian and Middle Eastern foods.  They also had two chefs making homemade falafel, or any other dishes you might have a hankering for.  Next to the dishes were a finger foods area and they even managed to squeeze in an 'Italian' area with spags and mac 'n cheese.




The meat station was mall, but made up for it in the fact that they had a succulent (love that word) cooked whole lamb over a bed of rice.  Yes, that makes me happy.  I had a few pieces of that and a few bites of the lamb kebab next to it.




The desserts were absolutely stunning, however I am not the biggest fan of Middle eastern sweets.  I a few pieces of this and that.  There was a lot of honey based desserts and phyllo used.






It was all very pretty.  I finished off with a date or two, which I found out is usually how they break the fast, but why veer from tradition of not doing what I am supposed to?  They had a beautiful date set-up with bowls of dates, a palm tree with dates acting as the trunk of the tree with a flowing mist of smoke (dry ice) pouring down from the base of the trunk onto the bowls of dates below.  It was magical...too bad I found out that I am not the biggest fan of dates.




Needless to say, after a cappuccino, I was a happy camper.  The foods were great, there were some neat new dishes I had never had and a few foods prepared different from how I've had them.  So, if you ever find yourself in the Middle East during Ramadan, do not fret.  Hit an Iftar at sunset!

Sunday, August 14, 2011

A shopping blip . . .

So, this may not be blog worthy (because this is a travel blog after all) however this pertains to a cool pair shoes and if that's not awesome, well then I don't know what to tell you other than stop reading right now...


Anyway, tonight a bunch of us headed over to the ADNEC Convention Center for an exhibit featuring crafts and traditional goods.  I read about it in the complimentary magazine I found in my room and online at TimeOut Abu Dhabi (which is turning out to be a pretty handy website).  It looked like a local to-do, so I figured, why not!


After a traditional Iftar meal (well, as traditional as you can get in a convention center) for $5, we headed into one of two halls.  Oh, and I have to mention as a side note that they sell corn in a  cup!  Like, you can get a medium or large cup of corn with butter, salt, pepper, spices, whatever.  I mean, is that not just awesome??


Sorry, but c'mon.  Fantastic...


Anyway, after 5 minutes we hit nirvana . . . a shoe stand.  After deciding I could not afford one of each I narrowed it down to two pair.  I managed to get him down from 250Dirham each to 270 for both pair.  Although I am sure they are worth far less than what I paid for them, I was proud of my first haggling and my cute pair of sandals.  I have to say, however, that my favorite moment of that shopping experience was when one of the nice Indian men asked me if I liked shoes.  I must of given him a look that said, "Are you actually asking me that question?"  After a smirk on his part, I replied with a, "Do I like shoes?  Does the sun shine?" (with my palms facing the sky, which I thought was a nice touch)  I got a giggle out a few of them and made my purchase.


The rest of the stands consisted of Sponge Bob artifacts (don't even ask), dresses, incense, jewelry and a few other odds and ends.  They are a pushy people, but it was especially interesting being only one of maybe 15 white people in the entire convention center.  Oh, and when I say they are pushy, I mean the foreign workers.  The local Emiratis don't really 'work' as much as they help out, volunteer, or work for the extra spending money.  I will be working with Emirati women, but they get paid double or even triple what I do and they do it for the extra spending cash.


Anyway, that is my shoe shopping (think Carrie in Sex in the City II) moment.  You can check them out below:






I am off to a Desert Safari tomorrow.  There is a great website that is kind of like a Groupon for Abu Dhabi.  It is half off ($30) for a half day safari with dune driving, sand boarding and dinner.  I figured I would torture myself even further and hang out, outside.  My mother has my last will and testament, so I should be good.  But who gets the shoes??


'Night . . .

Friday, August 12, 2011

Little tourist, big city . . .

Well, I finally decided to venture out into the baffling heat to see the sights of Abu Dhabi. 

However, before I indulge you in the beautiful sights of the Grand Mosque, let me explain something to you.  I am sure I am beating a dead horse at this point, but I can't articulate the seriousness of the heat situation over here.  The only way I can explain it to you is by giving you this scenario: Imagine sitting in an actual sauna, in your clothes.  You pour water over the hot rocks and then someone holds a space heater up to your face.  Now hold this situation there, in your brain for a second, and add in that it is Ramadan and drinking or eating is forbidden.  Not U.S. forbidden where you can sneak a sip of water in your car, no, you will get fined if you are caught.  So, I just thought I would enlighten you all with that piece of visual information, just because.

Now, I can continue with my 'Day out in Abu Dhabi'.  A few friends (nice group of girls I've managed to meet) and I decided to do the Big Bus Tour of Abu Dhabi on Thursday.  After purchasing our tickets at the hotel (I hope my apartment comes with a concierge), we were told that the Grand Mosque closes at 12noon, and if we wanted to head inside, we should take a taxi over right then and there to get in, on time.  So, after a 40 minute taxi ride at 50 Dirham ($13), we were dropped off at the entrance to the Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque.  It is one of the largest mosques in the world.  It is constructed of Italian marble, gold, Austrian crystal and semi precious gems.  Needless to say, they now how to fancy-up a church around here.  We swiftly walked to the mosque, as to avoid melting out in the heat.  We were kindly shown the women's entrance where we were given Abayas to put on.  I had my own scarf, threw that on my head and went into the courtyard.  Words can't quite explain the grand scale of this building.  Not a single inch of this place had a speck of dust on it.  There were constantly people (discreetly) walking around with dry mops, keeping the floor clean.  In order to step out onto the courtyard, it was politely suggested that you remove your shoes.  It amazed me how many people did not abide by this.  I guess they didn't get the memo about 'when in Rome'. Anyway, we walked around the courtyard, roamed the hallways and ended up the gorgeous (and air-conditioned) inner sanctum of the mosque.  Apparently it can hold up to 41,000, with the main prayer hall holding up to 7,000-9,000.  The chandelier is the largest in the world and is adorned with precious and semi precious stones embedded into the Austrian crystals.  Th rug is also the world's largest handmade rug (I wonder what Chrissy's wholesale price on that would be).  After walking around we head out back into the entrance, threw our clothing into the basket and caught the bus onto the next stop.


The Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque

One of the entrances to the mosque

One of the pools surrounding the mosque
(I wonder what the fine is for 'accidently' falling into the pool?)

Marble columns inlaid with colored marble flowers

One of the hallways

The open courtyard in the middle of the mosque

The inside looking out

A sign inside (the men and women pary seperately)

The inside looking out into the courtyard

One of the walls inside the mosque.  The inlaid colored
marble is actually raised up to give a 3D effect

A tour group standing in front of a door inside.  Tours are free and given by local Emirati
to inform people on the religion of Islam.

The entrance looking into the grand prayer hall

One of seven chandeliers.  They are made with crystal, semi-precious and
precious gems along with 'a little' gold.

Looking odwn the grand prayer hall

A pretty little nook in the wall

Myself and two other girls (Heidi and Carrie)

Contemplating the degree of sweat I am collecting underneath my Abaya

Can I get an Amen for air-conditioning?

Standing in front of  one of the entry ways into the mosque

The Big Bus pulled up just in time and we headed up to the upper level, air-conditioned deck.  We plugged our headphones in, turned the channel to 'English', sat back and enjoyed the ride.  An added bonus was that the bus company allowed us to drink water while in the bus.  What a treat!  The entire loop was 2 1/2 hours and we were able to hop on/hop off.  The trip was intended to be a chance to see the city, more so than getting off and exploring.  We did, however, have every intention of getting off at the Iranian Souk (outdoor market like Zern's).  Upon pulling into the Souk entrance and not seeing anyone buying anything, and realizing that it was 115 degrees, we quickly agreed we would hit the Souk up at a more appropriate (and tolerable) time.


A funky bridge (I bet their tolls don't go up a dollar every year)

Ah, yes. My employer...

The Carpet Souk

One of th emany Abu Dhabi skylines, inlcuding the Abu Dhabi beach

One area of the Corniche

A view from the Corniche looking out into the gulf

Another view of the skyline (They have a few skylines)

The Emirates Palace (the world's most expensive hotel to build)

Date Palms (they are practically the national fruit)

They are everywhere!  The bags around each bunch of dates catches the dates as they fall.

I saw this back by the bathrooms in the mall

This was the old leader and these are his sons, th new leaders
(These signs are everywhere)

Rosa Parks would not be too impressed with little sign

Hum, I don't think I saw one of these in Schwenksville...

The tour ended up being worth every penny (or dirham), because it actually gave us the chance to see and situate ourselves into the city scene.  Although the city is similar to NYC, being that it is on an island with gridded streets, it is still a little overwhelming.  So, it was nice to get our bearings and see what there is to do.  They even have an attraction called Heritage Village, which is a working traditional Bedouin village that tourists can visit and interact in.

A few other things I'd like to share, to make the experience more relateable:  they drive on the 'correct' side of the street (those British didn't leave their stubborn driving habits on the city), you do not jaywalk!, it is polite not to stare or smile at a local Emirati man unless you intend to leave the impression of being a flirt (that has been tough;)), you can wear what you were at home with minimal limits, haggling is expected at many markets and souks, you can pretty much eat and buy the same things you would at home (although what's the fun in that?) and I've noticed that I do get some looks and stares (I'm guessing they got the memo on how awesome I am).

I've included some pictures and video, so I hope you enjoy them.  I took most of my pictures at the Mosque, as we did not get out of the bus often to get snapshots of other sites.  I will get back to the interesting spots when I can actually physically walk outside for longer than 15 minutes without passing out.  I also thought I would include a video of some drivers practicing on the racetrack last night.  How cool, right?


Driving by the Sheik Zayed Grand Mosque


Inside the mosque out in the courtyard


Inside the mosque, in the grand prayer hall


A short video of the cars practicing at the Yas Marina Circuit

Enjoy!!

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Patience is not only a virtue, but a requirement...

So, as the orientation begins to progress in our beginning days in Abu Dhabi, many people are being introduced to the cultural idea of "Inshallah".  This phrase basically means "If Allah wishes"; simply stating that if Allah wishes something to be, it will be (similar to the idea of "it it's meant to be").

Our first official day of meeting was on Sunday.  We were asked to be in the conference hall at 5pm, at which point we would meet with a few members of ADEC (Abu Dhabi Education Council), open our bank account, and get a chance to speak with a few vendors like rental car companies, etc.  After arriving at 4:45pm, like the good professional western teacher I am, we were told at 5:45 that the ADEC will arrive around 6:30/7pm, so we could return around that time (Inshallah moment number one).  After a short tour of the hotel, a friend and I returned to the conference room lobby, to find a very large swarm of teachers lined up at tables opening bank accounts.  At about 6:15pm, the meeting started with ADEC.  The information session lasted about 15 minutes and the rest of the time was spent answering questions from teachers.  I stayed until the end of the Q&A session, because I did not want to miss any good information.  We then walked into the lobby which contained several hundred teachers setting up their bank accounts.  Unfortunately there was no order to the maddness.  You had to shuffle around to the tables, manage to get up to the front, find the one copy of the list to check if you were assigned to that table (Inshallah moment number two), and if you were, you would go to the back of the line to wait.  After and hour in line (Inshallah moment number three) I made it to the front.  At that point it was about 7:15/7:30 and it was time for my guy to 'break fast'.  Being the month of Ramadan and having to fast from sunrise to sunset, you better believe these guys were hungry and thirsty.  So, in Middle Eastern fashion, the man stood up and went to Iftar (Iftar is the meal you break fast with - like dinner).  He was actually very nice about it, apologized and said he would be back in 15 minutes (Inshallah moment number four).  After the gentleman returned, he helped me fill out the necessary documents and I went on my merry way.

The chaos of opening our bank accounts in the lobby. 
A teacher obviously did not organize this process!  :)
The following morning, I was assigned as the second group to head out to the health screening session, for our physical.  We left at 9:15am and returned at 2:45pm (Inshallah moment numbers five, six and seven).  It wasn't very involved, as they looked at your skin for signs of leporsy (um, okay...?), took blood (I gave permission to clone mebecause, yes I am that awesome) and took a chest x-ray to check for TB.  So not bad, just a lot of waiting.

Health Screening Center
Today (Tuesday) was my day to go to the Police Station for our fingerprinting.  After a delicious traditional meal of Iftar (I will post all about that amazing cultural experince in a few days), a friend and I headed over to the hotel lobby at about 10:15pm for our scheduled 10:45pm departure (I am finding they do a lot of activities during the evening).  After 5 hours of waiting in the lobby, we left at 3:15am (Inshallah moment number eight, nine, ten and ten and a half).  We were worried of leaving the lobby for too long because of the possibility of falling asleep in our rooms and missing our van to the fingerprinting appointment.  We were dropped off at the station and waited in the waiting rooms for only 15-30 minutes (not too bad).  The poor men taking our fingerprints looked exhausted.  Apparently the machines kept crashing (the fingerprinting is computerized).  We were the last group to go, but we got through the process the fastest.  The men in the police station were dressed in the traditional robes and it was interesting being in the room with them.  It seemed like the delirium had kicked in because they were overly gitty.  They were very nice and as long as you thanked them and had a good attitude about the process, it made them even happier.  After 'permanently' leaving my mark in the UAE, we headed back to the bus and came back to the hotel at about 4:30am.  Another girl (who accidently high-fived the Emirati man showing her were the bus was) and myself decided to just stay up for the complimentary breakfast at 6:30am and then try to sleep for a few hours afterwards.  That is how I found myself on the computer right now at 5:07am.

Through all of this, I have to say that I have kept my cool.  I also find it very interesting the amount of people having a difficult time adjusting to the idea of patience or Inshallah.  We were warned in all of our memos and online information sessions; it was posted on blogs and forums, however I think many did not understand the depth of the concept of patience needed to survive here.  It is so drastically different from the American way of thinking.  We live in a culture of "It needed to be done yesterday".  I believe that this western mentality has it's advantages and disadvantages.  However, I also believe the mentality here in the UAE also has it's advantages and disadvantages.  While waiting to start a meeting, waiting in line, waiting in a hospital waiting room, or even waiting in a hotel lobby, I took a step back and looked at the big picture of the life changes taking place.  The thing that I kept coming back to, was the fact of how fortunate I am.  I am in one of the most interesting places I've seen in my life, in one of the most beautiful hotels I've had the pleasure of staying at and I am not working (yet), I have a few dollars in my account, I am meeting some neat people, I am able to stay in contact with my loved ones (more or less :)) and oh, did I mention that all of this is happening in the middle of the Arabian Desert?  Compared to what I was doing this time last year, I'd say things are slightly different...

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

The Arrival

Well, I've arrived!  I had every intention of writing the day after I arrived, but I was lucky enough to get right into it and hang out with a few people.  After the smooth trip over here from Philly to Chicago to Abu Dhabi, we got off the plane only to be greeted by representatives of the travel agency with our visas in hand.  We were walked through the eye scan, customs and over to bag check where we picked up our bags, loaded them onto carts and pushed them out into the 100 degree heat along with (I would have to estimate) 90% humidity.  For those of you who were so quick to say, "Oh, well, it won't be that bad; it's dry heat", it's not dry.

After having our bags loaded onto a bus for us, we drove (in a nicely air-conditioned coach) to The Yas Hotel, located on Yas Island in the United Arab Emirates.

--This is where I pause to explain something to you.  This hotel, like many things in this grand country, holds incredible qualities unique not only to this country, but the world.  Firstly, it is the world's first hotel built directly over a Formula 1 race course (which runs directly under my balcony).  Secondly, there is a 'veil' that lays over the hotel (in the shape of a whale) that acts like a sun shield during the day and a neon purple masterpiece in the evening.  Finally, it is rated as one of the world's top hotels.  The staff cannot do enough for you and the interior is what hotels rooms will look like ' in the future'.  Although this explanation does the hotel no justice, I think you have the idea that this hotel is like nothing many people have seen or experienced.  I am lucky enough to be graced with the Abu Dhabi hospitality experience for the next 17 days.  Yee Haw! --

Anyway, after checking in, I had my bags brought up to the room, and crashed.  The next morning a few people took a  trip to a supermarket where they had a better selection of toiletries than we do (what happened to "Pack a lot of toiletries, they have none"??).  We picked up a few odds and ends for our mini fridges and headed over to the roof-deck pool for a few rays.  At this point I found out quickly that the sun in the Arabian desert is strong.  So, be advised, wear sun block.  Needless to say, the pool was something out of a L.A. Yogurt commercial with the beautiful woman in her white Chanel bathing suit, eating her exotic imported yogurt that was extracted from a rare newborn goat; spouting how smooth and creamy the yogurt was and only contains 1 gram of fat!  The pool, location, snack room, infinity pool, towel boy and cushy chairs were well-suited to my liking :) .  Anyway, enough about the pool.  That evening we went to Marina Mall, the largest mall in Abu Dhabi, where I quickly purchased a Starbucks and headed over to Carrefour for a cell phone and then we all went upstairs for a bite to eat.

Since then, I have been filling my days in with a small orientation where we spoke with the head of the Abu Dhabi Education Council, received our bank accounts, paid a visit to IKEA (may have made slight fools of ourselves), went over to the other roof-deck pool on the other side of the hotel and I even ordered up some room service.  Today was capped off with a four and a half hour visit to the health screening office (patience is more than just a virtue in this country, it is a requirement) for our physical and the upcoming week with be an 11pm visit to the police station for our fingerprinting and background check, along with a guided city tour of Abu Dhabi.  Next week, we get down to business with the official orientation and then off to our towns and schools!

Right now it is Ramadan, which involves a lot of prayer, fasting and traditions.  We can eat in  the hotel, but only in the designated areas and not out in public.  This includes water, gum and snacks.  It really hasn't been a big deal.  I even heard the fast breaking prayer at sunset in the IKEA.  Neat...

Above all of this, I think the most important part of the trip has been the intense and amazing immersion into this mysterious, exotic, sensitive, yet deeply rooted culture.  After stepping off the plane, I quickly saw how many foreigners there really are, here in Abu Dhabi.  I feel like the majority of them are Indian, so seeing a local Emirati man or woman is a treat.

As far as dress is concerned, the men seem to wear a white robe (Kandura) with a white head piece (Guthra) that has a black rope (Egal) tied around it.  You will see other Muslim men walking around wearing variations of this, and sometimes this indicates what countries they are from.  For instance, a Saudi man may wear a red and white checkered Guthra instead of the white one worn here.  The women are typically wearing a black robe (Abaya) and a head covering (Shela).  There are variations of the head pieces, depending upon what the lady desires.  I may be incorrect in the names or descriptions, so please don't hold me to any of this information!  I was also told by a woman who married a Muslim man that it is usually the choice of the women to wear the Muslim clothing.  I am assuming they choose to do so for many reasons like religion and culture, along with the fact that it is what they are raised with and are used to.  I have to say (putting aside my personal opinions) that after seeing it with my own two eyes, especially in this environment, it really struck me as having an element of beauty to it.

Before coming to the UAE, my job agency was very good in providing us with culture information and a short do's and don't's list, in order to make our transition into Abu Dhabi and our schools, smoother.  It will definitely take some getting used to.  It's advisable to try not to insult or give the wrong impression to a local, especially with how hospitable everyone has been so far.  When a local Muslim man or woman walk by, they have such a pace and presence about them, that it is still hard, after four days, not to look an extra second longer.  The women are beautiful and the men have such a different and more 'Arabian' (I know, cliche') look about them than any other Middle Eastern people I have seen.  It really is so different to Muslims we see in the states or on T.V.  A few Muslim girls from the U.K. even said how different it was than back in England.  I am looking forward this...

Well, I am going to try and attach some pictures I took over the past few days.  Be warned that I have not really done a tour of the city yet, due to the jet lag I am still dealing with.  Please feel free to comment on anything I've written.  If you have questions or are more interested in the cultural experience, please don't hesitate to ask.  Unfortunately, it is forbidden to take pictures (just think of the Amish), so people pictures are out.  However, I will be posting others as the days, weeks and month roll on.  Enjoy!

My room looking towards the balcony
The race track under my balcony (you can see the shield as well)
My room looking towards the bathroom


The small gallery in the hotel
Room Service
The Yas Hotel


The Yas Hotel, Marina and Formula 1 track