Friday, August 10, 2012

Castelina in Chianti (Tuscany)


Onto Tuscany and Castellina in Chianti . . .

What can I say?  From one beautiful area to another.  The Tuscan landscape, like Cinque Terre, is something you see on television or in pictures and say, ‘yeah right, it looks like that?!’  Well . . . it does . . . in every way.  Castellina in Chianti is a small village my Mom and I happened upon 10 years ago.  It is small medieval/renaissance hilltown nestled in the Chianti region of Italy.  We stayed at Fattoria Tregole and was hosted by the lovely Edith.  She runs a beautiful and very hidden B&B overlooking olive groves and grape vineyards.  She serves and simple, but tasty, breakfast and even runs cooking classes (which my Mom and I took her up on happily).  We also got a chance to walk around their cellars, since they are a small working winery.  We also got out one day and did some wine tastings, thanks to our trusty GPS, a ‘few’ windy white stone roads and some suggestions from small, but very tasty winery employees.

**I have to pause, because as I write these blog entries, I realize that I have not yet told you a few of our interesting and, at times, gut splitting stories throughout our Matregrano Italian Tour.  Could it be compared to a National Lampoon’s Vacation experience, well, at times . . . yes.  Here is a list of a few of our note-worthy experiences throughout our travels though Italia . . .
1.       The entire trip was focused on my Mother’s stubborn and moody phone.  We ended up calling her 'Flo', so at least we had someone to yell at.  One minute it had service, the next it didn’t.  One minute we’d be driving along using the GPS system and the next, we’d be cut off.  I believe the record for the amount of time she needed to restart the phone to reset the service was 4 or 5 times.  The best thing was, that it became a joke every time the ‘power up’ ringtone sounded; alerting her the phone was operation.  It reminded me of high school, when someone dropped their tray in the cafeteria and every one would cheer.  That’s pretty much how we are dealing with the phone situation (mine just doesn’t even work).
2.       When we did have GPS capabilities, ‘it’ or really I should say I, managed to drive our small Ford Fiesta rental car through the main (forbidden, I might add) street in Siena . . . one of the most historical Italian centers.  Luckily, after my father turned bright red and my mom refused to look any of the passerby’s in the eye, we found a young waiter you gave us directions out and encouraged us to do so quickly.
3.       Apparently once wasn’t enough, because I seemed (I blame it on the damn GPS at this point) to do the same thing through the lovely and super famous walled hill city of Montepulciano.  At this point, my mom and I were laughing so hard she stopped breathing and I nearly peed myself (but my Dad still turned bright red).  Now, luckily we only managed to go through the lower part of the main square and we got out pretty quickly by following a permitted vehicle.  Look at it this way though, if you are interested in learning about the ins and outs or Siena and Montepulciano (on a personal level), put me behind the wheel.
4.       Besides the phone, the private tours of famous walled cities and the profuse sweating all of us experienced, at this point we are just blown away by the amount of calories we have to be burning in Italy!  I mean, you think Italy, you think amazing food.  Well, it’s true.  We have eaten some outstanding food, but DAMN, do we walk a lot.  And not just walking, but hill/step walking.  I am going to need a friggin’ vacation from Italy.

Anyway, back to Castellina in Chianti . . .
The first night we were there, we ate at a restaurant recommended by Edith.  It was pretty disappointing.  It was the first bad meal I had in Italy.  I should have known, though, because it was in the main piazza and was filled with tourists.  The food was soaked in butter and oil and it was just off-putting.  Luckily the following night was our cooking class dinner/  We made foccacia, pasta, pesto, stuffed tomatoes, a roast and a few other goodies.  A Canadian couple on their honeymoon were also taking the class.  We ate outside, laughed (mainly about chasing bats out of houses . . . don't ask why) and just had a relaxing evening.  On our last night in Castellina in Chianti, we hit a fantastic hidden outside restaurant, next to a vineyard.  It was definitely a better suggestion than the first restaurant.
The following day we headed out for Montepulciano, hoping to stop by Siena on the way there.  Well, as you may have read (if you were not totally bored and didn't skip the the bulleted list above), not only did we see Siena, but I decided (by accident, of course) to take the VIP tour of Siena and drive directly into the pedestrian walkways, up to the main square (I TOTALLY blame that incident on Flo).  After my parents practically shi**ing themselves, I managed to get back on track and, with only one failed attempt at entering the majestic walled city of wine, made it safe and sound into Montepulciano.


Creepy Italian trees


Eggs for the cake

Our kitchen (for the class)


take to make the pasta

Pesto

Olive oil tastings

Eggplant

Chocolate Cake

Stuffed tomatoes

Rollin' out the foccacia

Eggplant and ricotta cheese cups

Roast

Pasta

Voila!  Dinnertime




concrete wine tanks

barrel room


Meat on a rock . . . yep, I said meat on a rock.


Cinque Terre (The Italian Coast)


Cinque Terre . . . the five hill towns

This place is like a postcard you’d buy of the Italian coastline, or the clip art image you’d copy and paste into your desktop screensaver.  It’s breath-taking, local, and one of my favorite places in Italy.  Of the five towns (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and  Monterosso), we decided to stay in Manarola.  We usually visit the town of Vernazza, however in October 2011, Vernazza was ravaged by a horrible storm, which left the town buried under 10 feet of mud.  Hearing that they were back in business in May, I thought about changing our reservation over to Vernzza, from Manarola, but had a feeling that maybe they needed another season to really get ready for tourists.  I am really happy with the decision to stay in Manarola.  What a find!  It has the central walkway (with some cute shopping) that cuts through town (like Vernazza), but with more of an untouched, or local feel.  Our apartment (made a note to myself to do more apartments in the future . . . highly recommend it) was located on the main drag, which was a little difficult if we wanted to hit bed early.  However, we didn’t worry about going to bed early, so it was fine.  The funny thing was, that our terrace overlooked the main walkway where the locals bar was.  So, we enjoyed naming and watching the locals who frequented the bar . . . some free entertainment.
Throughout the week stay, we visited Manarola, a few of the other hill towns (glad we did not stay in Vernazza, though we still wanted to visit to give our support), did a hillside hike through the groves and vineyards and went swimming.  We ate out at some great eateries (all recommended by Rick Steves, who hit home on each and every one!) and even cooked in one night with some fresh seafood we purchased from the fish monger earlier that day.
I will say one thing about Manarola (and Cinque Terre in general) is, be prepared to walk!!  You will walk the streets, you will walk 100 to 200 stairs just to get to the next level of your hike, you will walk roads that put that super curvy street in San Francisco to shame . . . and then you will walk some more.  It’s the price you pay for being in a less-touristed area (even though there were quite a few tourists) in a beautiful setting like Cinque Terre.  So, put on your comfiest sneakers, pack a lot of water and some fruit and be prepared to work your butt off!

The view from our terrace

the view looking up the street


Ah, the friggin' hills



The Cinque Terre hiking trail


Seafood!!!


Monterosso


Ummmm, ouch

Our entryway to the apartment

Vernazza

Cooking in (fresh anchovies)

We bought seafood for a home-cooked meal


Apples

Sugar cane

Our vineyard hike




Olives







Saturday, August 4, 2012

Let the Matregrano Grand Italian Tour begin. First stop, Venice...


Venice, the city of amazing feats of architecture and hordes of tourists…

What can I say?  Every time I visit Italy, I seem to go back to Venice.  However, as the weather is warmer and the tourists are plentiful, I have to say that this may have been my last visit.  Don’t get me wrong, I love the city and it’s maze of walkways lined with water and working men scooting along in their motorboats, but the only area that seems to exist in anymore, is the small back alleyways where the few locals still live and the occasional bed and breakfast resides.  It was hot, stuffy, jam-packed with people from all over the world.  Unfortunately I did not bring the proper footwear, which has made a difference on this trip and it really was tough in Venice. 
On the lighter side though, my parents and I had the pleasure of spending our time with one of my friend’s, Kamaya.  She is a treat to travel with and I am glad she came over and put up with us for a few days.  Our second night there, Kamaya was exhausted from her travels, so my parents and I did a great pub/wine crawl through the back streets with a gentleman, Alessandro, who was recommended by Rick Steves.  The following day, we took a great tour of Doge’s Palace and the Basilica, which I have to say, was a pleasant surprise.  We also ate at a great ‘local’ seafood joint called, Osteria di Mascaron.  What a hidden jewel!  It was packed, the food was fantastic, we even managed to be served by either the owner or manager, and boy, did he like Kamaya, haha.  I had the black ink squid pasta, which was to die for.  While my parents and Kamaya dug into some mixed seafood.  I highly recommend this restaurant (near Campo Maria Formosa).
The following day, Kamaya stayed  and hit a mask-making workshop and a haunted tour (jealous) and we headed out to pick up our rental car and made our four-hour haul to the ever gorgeous ‘Cinque Terre’…

Murano

Burano


Doge's Palace

The drive to Cinque Terre


Etchings in Doge's Palace

Glass sculpture on Murano Island


Although it's hard to see, the small sign she is sitting next states that sitting is forbidden....

Looking out of the passage way called the Bridge of Sighs

Rialto Bridge


St. Mark's Basilica



Water Taxi

Murano alley ways